John Muir Trail, Sept 09

Colby Meadow, looking towards Muir Pass and the Goddard Divide

evolution creek

high in the mountains

clear as a window water

at our feet

flowing its secret words

speaking some language

to the rocks and trees

moving with effortless gravity

toward a destination

downstream the water now slacked

against willful walls

demanding a halt to the words

the magic work done

serves other intention

to power the colossus

serve fields unadorned

suffer unkind toxicants

and disappear finally

into the exhausted soil of the valley

                                                              
                             NOTE: click on photo at right to see all 55 photos of the trip

John Muir Trail 2009 by Richard Nichols

Introduction

I backpacked  the 220 mile long JMT several years ago with my friend Jon Bryfogle and wanted to return with  Brenda on this spectacular, scenic and difficult trail. The plan was to walk from Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite NP to the end atop 14,595 foot Mount Whitney.

We had a wonderful time, taking 8 days to cover the first 100 miles. In the first four days we increased our miles, going 11, 12, 13, and 14 miles. We were feeling really good on day 8 as we ascended into Evolution Valley, and approached the 100 mile mark. We looked forward to camping at scenic Evolution Lake that evening. Sometimes stuff happens unexpectedly, and it did. In an instant, Brenda developed a strained tendon and could not walk further. We set up camp and in the morning turned around, disappointed that we had to stop, but thrilled that we walked and enjoyed those glorious 100 miles. We had adventures, we made friends, and we had hard earned fun.

We Get Warmed Up

Our friends Stan and Sharon Bluhm generously hosted us at June Lake in the Eastern Sierra, (near Mono Lake) so that we could get acclimated. The first day, we did a 9 mile hike high on the ridge behind the cabin, and the next day, after a docent led tour by the Bluhms at Mono Lake, we went up high to Tioga Pass and took a lovely hike up to and beyond the old mining area of Bennettville. The next day we took the local bus up to Tuolumne Meadow, and off we went.

Day One - Tuolumne Meadow to the end of Lyell Canyon, 11 miles

The West fork of the Tuolumne River is called the Lyell Fork. It a long wide glacially carved valley with the creek falling over rocks and meandering through meadows for 10 miles. On the west side the rounded Mammoth Peaks loomed over us. The nice easy trail went fast and we climbed up 700 feet  of the 2000 foot climb to 11,000 foot Donohue Pass. We found a fine campsite and settled in for the night. The usual routine throughout the trip was: set up camp, eat, read and usually in the tent at dark, or about 8 PM, where we either read or quickly fell asleep.

Day Two - Lyell Fork to Garnet Lake, 12 miles (23)

                                 top: Garnet Lake, below: 1000 Island Lake

We were up early every day and on the trail by 7. This day we faced the first big climb, the 1300 foot ascent up Donohue Pass. As you climb the south end, the Cathedral Range comes into view with the remnants of the 10,000 year old glaciers clinging high on the face of the ridge. As we topped the pass, the Ritter Range came into view, dominated by 13,000 foot peaks Ritter and Banner. The water draining off the north side of the pass ends up in San Francisco, while the south side water ends up in Los Angeles, a testament to the thirsty and far reaching nature of water politics in California. The trail then descends into the Rush Creek drainage, the only easterly running water on the JMT. After the valley traverse, we made a short climb to Island pass before dropping down to 1000 Islands Lake, with it backdrop of the Ritter Range. We continued on to its twin, Garnet Lake and found a campsite on a cramped ledge above the lake, and were treated to the best sunset of the trip.

 

                                                      

                                                        Devils Postpile

Day Three - Garnet Lake to Reds Meadow, 13 miles (36)

From Garnet Lake we had several ascents and descents past pretty lakes, then began a long 8 mile down hill through forest to Reds Meadow. We walked with three  20 somethings for a while, and Brenda kept up with them and chatted while I fell back. We took the side trail to have a look at Devils Postpile. At camp that night I gave B her trail name — the Gazelle! At Reds we pick up food, set up camp, and had a hot shower at the hot springs. We got clean, and also washed our clothes. We went to the Mule House Cafe for dinner, before turning in. We met Steve a Dena at the campground where they had clothes spread out and drying. We had a chat with this friendly couple; he an architectural photographer and she a civil engineer.

A note here: the tendency is to see the same people hiking, so that we got to know this couple and others as we went along.

Day 4 - Reds Meadow to Purple Lake, 14 miles (50)

After a hearty breakfast at the Mule House we set out for a long hike that included an uphill climb through a burned forest and then a long dry traverse along the contour and uphill at about the mid 9000 foot elevation. This area is covered with pumice from the Mammoth Mt. volcano, which is in sight on part of the trail. The mountain is now a premier ski and mountain biking area, but it is a sleeping giant. We again ran into Steve and Dena at a creek crossing, and got a thunder clap and a few drops of rain. We made camp on a pleasant spot overlooking Purple Lake, and looked forward to the Silver Pass climb the next day.

                                                       Silver Pass

Day 5 - Purple Lake to Silver Pass Creek, 12 miles (62)

We left Purple and made the quick 400 foot climb to pretty Virginia Lake, then dropped dramatically into Tully Hole, 800 feet below. Descending down Cascade Creek, we know we had almost 2000 feet up to get over 11K Silver Pass.  We made the climb in good time, stopping for a rest and a cooling foot bath before passing Chief Lake where we had camped before. Views looking back to the Ritter Range were obscured by the smoke from the Yosemite fire. Over the pass we hiked down a broad granite valley and found a campsite along the creek, overlooking Mono Creek 800 feet below.

Day 6 - Silver Pass Creek to Vermillion Resort - 5.5 miles (67.5)

We made it down to the morning ferry with the intention of returning to the trail on the afternoon ferry. We ended up staying overnight in a trailer with a big view of the mountains, washing clothes, showering, resting and eating in the cafe. We enjoyed talking to hikers and the odd collection of resort employees. The waitress, Olive, was a classic fun loving, big living young woman. We bought a bottle of wine and enjoyed relaxing and watching the sun go down, knowing that we had much more hard hiking ahead. 

Day 7 - Vermillion Resort to Rosemarie Meadow, 12.5 miles (80) 

After a good breakfast we paid the bill and took the morning ferry. We knew what was coming, 50+ switchbacks climbing 2200 feet up Bear Ridge. After that, we descended 700 feet into the Bear Creek drainage, stopping finally at a camp in Rosemarie Meadow. Anxiety about climbing with a pack atelevation was reduced by the fact that we were doing well. Also, my minor foot pain problem was gone.                            

                            Rosemarie Lake

                  

Day 8 - Rosemarie Meadow to South Fork San Joaquin River 14 miles (94) 

We walked uphill into the Rosemarie Lake basin and were rewarded with a beautiful lake surrounded by granite mountains. From the lake we made the short climb to 11K Seldon Pass. From Seldon the trail dropped past pretty lakes, and forest, before making a steep switchback descent into the San Joaquin and Muir Trail Ranch. Here we picked up our food mailed weeks before, and sorted out getting 10 days of food into the bear barrels. After sorting and discarding, and picking some items out of the discard barrels to make our food more compact, we got everything in. While there we met Steve and Dena again, last seen at Reds Meadow days before. We got back on the trail and made it well up the trail. We knew that hardest was yet to come. We camped along the river near a group of three and had a little social time. We had last seen them at Reds. After describing what I did, Betsy the botanist said she had my coastal hiking guide.

                                Top: Muir Pass from McClure Meadow. Below: Evolution Creek

Day 9 - South Fork to Colby Meadow 7 miles (101 on the JMT)

We were up early, eating only a nut bar, and out with expectation about making it to Evolution Lake, one of the prettiest in the Sierra. We made the 700 foot climb into Evolution Valley, skirting the cascading creek, and soon made our first wet ford. At McClure meadow we had lunch as we gazed up at the high mountains and Muir Pass.

We made it another mile, and in an instant our journey came to an end. Brenda developed a severe leg tendon problem and we had to stop and make camp, luckily nearby and in a nice spot. Brenda crawled into the tent to rest, while I walked back to the Ranger station a mile back to see if a ranger was around. Ranger Dave said if she absolutely could not walk then rescue would be by helicopter of horse.

Day 10 - Colby Meadow to Blaney Hot Springs, 11 miles

Brenda and I talked out all the options and decided that getting to the trailhead at Florence Lake 15 miles back was the only option. In the morning Brenda could walk with the aid of some painkillers, and we started back. Shortly we ran into an angel in the guise of Mary, who we found out was heading down and driving out the next day, She offered a ride, so that worry was relieved. In camp that evening we offered her tea and dinner (freeze dried) and found out something about her. We talked for hours that evening and on the car ride. She runs a non profit in Winters called Center for Land Based Learning, which teaches kids and farmers about sustainable ag. Her program reaches into Sonoma County including Analy High and laguna Farms.

She is also the chair of the Yolo County Planning Commission. Mary is a practical visionary, with a great deal of knowledge and skill.

Day 10 - Hot Springs to ferry landing, 5 miles (117 total miles)

Brendas leg was improving, so we made good time to catch the 9 a.m. ferry.

We took six hours to get to the Sacramento airport, and talked about all sorts of things with Mary, from Valley farmers and farming to health care reform to Coastwalk California. After lunch in Merced, we arrived at the airport and rented a car, then headed for June Lake, arriving at 9 that night, so we had a long day. Left camp at 6 a.m. and arrived at June 15 hours later. We slept and then drove home the next day, Brenda following me in the rental car to Sacramento.

Reflections

We really enjoyed the hiking, the people, the scenery, and looked forward to continuing. The leg injury was sudden, with no indication until it actually happened. My sense is that we were carrying too much weight, because we carried food for 10 days, and I think that stressed the tendons. Next year, when we finish the last and toughest 100 miles, we will reduce our pack weight as much as possible, and have food dropped for us at the five day point. At our age, not being overloaded is very important.

Although we were disappointed, we found the trip very enjoyable, the scenery and the people were the best. Being out in nature for that long becomes a meditative experience, one that we cherish.