Mexico January, Febuary 2010

Brenda and I spent a month in central Mexico.

Photos, see more at     http://picasaweb.google.com/nichols70/MexicoJanFeb2010#
sunset at Malahque
temple in San Miguel de Allenda
temple buried in lava
copper worker
A pissed off Hidalgo, father of the insurrection against the Spanish

HIGHLIGHTS

Everything went very well. The bus system works, the food is delicious, rooms are inexpensive ($23 to 45) and clean, the people friendly, the colonial town a treat to visit, and we loved the authentic artesian crafts,  and this part of Mexico is safe, as is most everywhere. We also met some interesting people. We were walking on a country road where a  young woman with a baby gave us directions to a lake, and then later invited us into her house for a chat. Patricia is a sweet and kind person who was raised on the family farm, and she kept giving us things including a hand embroidered cloth for wrapping tortillas, (which she also offered). In Patzcuaro we ran into a retired Catholic priest from San Francisco, who entertained us with his hysterical critical views of the church and the pope. For several days we hung out with French Canadian Ellen, having dinner, and traveling to see the buried in lava 17th century church. The mask maker Philipe Horta plyed us with tequila, and shared his home and mask making for an hour. Also, in Santa Clara del Cobre, a copper working family invited us into the work area behind their home and shop, where they hand made beaten copperware.

First stop was Guadalajara (pop. 4 million) and after 3 days of checking out the colonial center of this huge city, seeing the temples, old civic building and the wonderful Orozco murals, we moved on to the small town of Tapalpa, high on a mountain range, in a big valley,  surrounded by pine trees. Very relaxed after the busy city. Then it was on the hot humid coast. Manzanillo is a big port city, very busy, but we stayed in an old colonial hotel in the heart of the old town, and enjoyed fresh fish dinners and a walk on a long beach. We walked through the grounds of a luxury golf resort, and a had a good laugh at the fake beach and swim up bar.

We spent several days in Malahque, where the main thing to do seemed to be hanging out on the beach and drinking, mostly sun baked Canadians populated the place.

After a brief visit to Puerto Vallarta, which we found to be a bit to touristy, we moved on the coastal village of Sayulita, where old friend Coral, has a house. This laid back surfer town was very mellow and fun, and we had a good visit. Coral's house is in the jungle, and she and Jon have made a very cozy place to live. A walk on a nearby beach took us by mangrove swamps with crocks, and a big destroyed hotel, victim of a quake in the 90's.

From the coast we went inland to Guanahuato, a colonial era silver mining town, a colorful and interesting town to be in. One evening we went to the regional symphony orchestra and playing the music of Elgar, Puccini, and others, plus a great piece by a Mexican composer. We took a bus on dirt roads to view the geographical center of Mexico, Christo Rey, on a mountain top, where an 80 foot statue of Jesus sits over a temple. It was impressive, the faithful were there in droves.

Several days in San Miguel de Allende, the famous American ex-pat community, found us wandering around the old colonial town for several days, checking out temples and enjoying the botanical garden on the edge of town.

Next stop was Patzcuaro in the Michoacan highland.                                                                        

We planned to stay only a few days, but liked the town so much that we finished our trip there. This colonial town has a vibrant indigenous culture. The Purepeche people have been in the region for centuries, and inhabit villages all around the big Lake Patzcuaro. In the 17th century a benevolent priest helped them recover from Spanish conquest by establishing communal farming and developing crafts. To this day each village has a specialty, mask making, beaten copper utensils, weaving, enamel ware. and many other colorful items. Around the lake I counted 2 dozen extinct volcanic domes. The current hotspot is 70 miles away, where a dome started in 1943, and buried several villages and a church, before going quiet in the 50's.

We left Patzcuaro for home. On the 20 hour journey we used in order: taxi, bus, bus, taxi, airplane, airplane, BART, and our car.